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-Paul Harvey

What to Ask When Buying GemStones

...excerpted from "Jewelry and Gems, The Buying Guide"
-How to Buy Diamonds, Pearls, Colored Gemstones, Gold & Jewelry with Confidence and Knowledge-
by Antoinette Matlins PG & A.C. Bonanno, FGA, ASA, MGA

Matlins
Asking the right questions is the key to knowing what you are getting when it comes to buying gemstones. It is also the only way you can be sure what you are comparing when considering gems from different jewelers. Be sure the jeweler can answer your questions, or can get the answers for you. Then, be sure the jeweler is willing to put the answers in writing on your bill of sale. Finally verify the facts, double check that the stone is as represented, by having it examined by a qualified gemologist-appraiser.
Diamond Basics, the factors used to determine the quality and value of a diamond are referred to as the "Four C's". In terms of their effect on the value of a diamond, in order of importance, we would list them as follows: -1. Color (body color), -2. Clarity (degree of flawlessness), -3. Cutting and proportions (often called the make), -4. Carat weight.
More on Cut -The Most Important "C", in terms of beauty, we would place the cutting first. It's important to distinguish exactly what "cut" means when referring to diamonds and other stones. Cut does not mean shape. No matter which shape is selected, it's cutting must be evaluated. Differences in cutting can effect a diamond's beauty, durability, and cost, the latter by as much as 50 percent, or more. The cutting and proportioning of a diamond -the stone's make- is important because of its effect on the fire (the lovely rainbow colors that flash from within) and brilliance (the liveliness, -the sparkle) exhibited by the stone. Proper cutting and proportioning release the full beauty that sets diamond apart from all other gems. A stone with excellent make will be exciting, while a stone with a poor make will look lifeless, it will lack the sparkle and personality we identify with a diamond. Differences in cutting can also effect the durability of a diamond and make it more susceptible to breaking and chipping. Fine cutting requires skill and experience and takes more time. For all these reasons, a well cut diamond commands a premium and will cost much more than one that is cut poorly. When buying a diamond, be sure to ask about the cut, color, clarity and carat weight. Get the facts, in writing, and compare the diamonds you are considering. Finally have the stone examined by a qualified gemologist-appraiser to verify that it is as represented. Ideally, seek someone who holds one of these respected credentials: The Gemological Institute of America's highest award is Graduate Gemologist (GG). In Great Britain, the highest award is FGA, in Australia, FGAA, In Canada, FCGA, in Germany, DG and in Asia AG. When seeking an appraiser, look for the title "Certified Gemologist Appraiser", which is awarded by the American Gem Society, or Master Gemologist Appraisers, which is awarded by the American Society of Appraisers.

What to Ask When Buying a Colored GemStone

  1. Is this a genuine, natural stone, or a synthetic? Synthetic stones are genuine, but not natural (for more information see chapter 13 of "Jewelry & Gems: The Buying Guide").
  2. Is the color natural? Most colored gemstones are routinely color enhanced (see chapter 13, 14). But if you are told that the color is natural it should be put in writing. Important gems should be accompanied by a gem testing laboratory report. Stones such as lapis should not be dyed, and you must protect yourself from buying dyed material that will not retain its color permanently (see chapters 16,17).
  3. Clarify what the name means. Be particularly careful of misleading gem names (see chapter 14).
  4. Is the clarity acceptable, or do too many inclusions detract from the beauty of the stone? Are there any flaws, inclusions, or natural characteristics that make it more vulnerable to breakage with normal wear? (see chapter 12).
  5. Do you like the color? How does the color look in different types of light? Some stones will appear to be one color in daylight but a different color in incandescent or fluorescent light (see chapter 12).
There are also the questions of color permanence (chapters 12, 13) the need for protective settings for soft or brittle stones (chapters 18,19) and the shape of gems (chapter 20). For a complete in-depth understanding, about what to look for as well as what to look out for, order the complete, 260 page, excellently illustrated text today!

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About the Author...
Antoinette Matlins, PG, is a gem and jewelry expert, author, and lecturer, and a leading consumer advocate. A frequent guest on CNN, ABC, CBS, and CNBC providing important consumer information, Matlins devotes a large part of her work to education. She is author of four internationally acclaimed books on gems and jewelry, has written a gemology column for National Jeweler Magazine for almost as decade, and conducts product know- ledge training for some of the countries most prestigious retailers and industry groups.
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Contact us at tripps@tripps.com. Copyright 1997-2003 Tripps, Inc.
Except from Jewelry & Gems The Buying Guide: How to Buy Diamonds, Pearls, Colored Gemstones, Gold & Jewelry with Confidence and Knowledge, 4th edition By Antoinette L. Matlins, PG & Antonio C. Bonanno, FGA, PG, ASA,Woodstock, VT: GemStone Press, 1998. Permission granted by GemStone Press.